5 ways to cultivate authentic style, outside the consumerist mainstream
What does authenticity mean to you?
The kernel that sprouted this post was a revelation that crossed my brain one night while walking: “Authenticity isn’t expensive.”
We’re taught and trained, in every realm of consumption, to adopt brands and see brands as our only source of trust, of identity, and of stylistic expression. Brands guide what we eat, what we watch. And they become very important when we buy clothes or cars or things to put in our homes.
Working in the ecommerce industry, the word authenticity is used constantly by brands (and retailers and media) to claim an origin, an originality, or a justification for high prices—to differentiate originals from imitations.
We deify brands (and their goods) as if they were gods and the source of truth on authentic style.
“The Capri Club” (Eagle Rock, LA)
I will always respect subjective personal style, but I now believe after much observation and experience, that authentic style is something different.
An authentic personal style is uniquely tailored to one’s lifestyle, and is more closely associated with a person’s practicalities, stories, origins, and memories than with brands, prices, or exclusivity—these are inventions of the free and competitive market.
Big brands and the consumption they encourage serve an important purpose, but they shouldn’t be our bible.
The most stylish people I know are genuinely eclectic, they embrace high and low, and let real needs drive their consumption.
These are five paths to authentic style, outside the consumptive mainstream.
Vintage appeal
I learned about the contemporary fashion resale business while I was living in Milan from Hilary Walker, the owner of Bivio.
She showed me the evolution of garment quality since the 1980s. She explained the markups and margins on luxury fashion, and spurred my first inkling that the industry I was studying to enter had an ugly side.
When I moved to LA, I really began to understand and appreciate true vintage—older garments rather than contemporary resale—as an option for daily wear and for sourcing new-to-me items.
“Man Cave”
Funny thing about vintage: it isn’t un-limited. There are only so many pairs of Levi’s 599s before a certain cutoff date, so there’s a thrill in the hunt.
So far this year, without trying very hard, I’ve only bought vintage fashion with few exceptions, and I believe this is for a few reasons.
Apples to apples, the quality of older denim and cotton can be much better than newer garments, even with years of prior use. The hand feel and crispness of vintage Levi’s is something to behold. The same is true for Russell Athletic 50/50 cotton-poly sweats.
I never feel squeamish to wear vintage either, because it’s already broken in!
Vintage is also better for the environment, naturally. Buy second-hand instead of new, reduce overall demand and thus production and waste.
Vintage cars are another style choice that has quickly become faddish. With the right sourcing, one can obtain a mint condition car of their teenage dreams for under fifteen or twenty grand, far less than a brand new version.
There’s rebellion in the choice to drive a 30-year old 300SEL Mercedes instead of leasing a new C300.
Merch power
The problem with things you buy online is that there’s no great story to accompany the artwork, the cardigan, or the ottoman. They’re just things you saw and liked and had sent to your door.
While global sourcing and doorstep delivery is the ultimate luxury for many, those shipments are likely criss-crossing the Atlantic ocean, creating needless freight traffic and pollution.
Somewhere in the last five years—driven by Gen Z, for whom much of millennial, heavily logoed fashion is cheugy, or cringey—simple styles with authentic references and souvenirs from actual places became cool again.
“Basura”
Repping your queer-owned gym or copping a one-of-a-kind sweatshirt from a local hardware store you like…these are the new style flexes.
I still get comments on the t-shirt I bought from Woon, the homestyle Chinese restaurant in my neighborhood, even though I just let myself live in it. Run errands, go for walks.
It has stains on it, but it’s legit.
Merch, short for merchandise, has become the new language of authenticity in one’s style. My friend Jeremiah is really good at spotting neat merch and snagging it, along the way in his life.
His take:
“I love the hyper-specificity of merch. It’s a conversation starter, establishes a sense of community with those who recognize it, and helps support local businesses.”
Another great thing about merch: it’s usually not expensive, but it does require having visited the place, or done the research, or had a keen eye for social media giveaways.
It’s not available online, and that’s the point.
Origin-story-rich things
For apparel brands producing new garments that go beyond basics, which necessitate an air of aspiration and worthiness, authenticity can be challenging.
Social responsibility is a new differentiating dimension.
The first-hand fashion and luxury market now requires all viable brands to acknowledge their role in sustainability, and what’s more, the ethical sourcing and details of their production.
Industry of All Nations is one modern research, design, and development studio doing just that.
IOAN for short, the LA-based label focuses on classic, staple styles that are mostly unisex, produced by indigenous makers in countries like Bolivia and Peru, using clean processes and paying workers fairly.
IOAN processes
Their garments are made from natural and upcycled fibers and colored with natural dyes, unless they’re left undyed. The label has two completely “undyed shops”—in Manhattan and in Joshua Tree.
My friend Eric is the creative director there, and he recently assembled an email whose headline read: Process Before Brand. IOAN believes in a world where we shop choosing processes before brand names. That’s why each main label showcases the practices which describe the process, material, or technology used in each product.
I can’t say that every piece is design perfection or even my personal taste, but all of IOAN’s alpaca sweaters and undyed corduroy joggers are humble, elegant, and real. And you can feel good about spending money on them.
Being in their stores feels like buying artisanal goods directly from makers, with a sprinkle of the high-end refinement that sophisticated apparel shoppers enjoy.
Practicality wins
I’ve learned to appreciate and embrace stylish practicality from my family, for whom form usually follows function—especially for clothing.
I had this equation flipped for many years, and while I may have looked polished, I was never comfortable in my expensive clothes. I never felt effortless in the way we do when we look and feel our best.
The moments I feel my most authentic are usually very simple outfits and clothes: jeans or joggers, windbreakers and hoodies, t-shirts and sneakers.
I stopped wearing tight clothes and vowed to never buy “designer” sneakers, since there are so many cool athletic sneakers that are actually comfortable to wear and are rarely over $200.
The inimitable Lorraine Kushner (my godmother)
After a visit home this spring, I realized that my 90-year-old godmother Rainy has influenced my style in subtle ways over the years.
She sticks to neutral colors like white, black, and gray, and loves organic textures like linen and cashmere. She always has stylish eyewear and simple but elegant jewelry.
After a discussion about her lifelong relationship with Birkenstocks, I treated myself to a new pair of Arizonas since I had been looking at sandals. They have a soft footbed and are made from the supplest “antique white” suede.
Wanna know something cool about Birks? They’re cult classics, relatively inexpensive, and aren’t likely to disintegrate any time soon.
My new mantra for any new thing, especially as it relates to the closet or the household: buy what I can afford and exercise good taste.
Fewer precious things
What’s a gorgeous bag or an expensive watch if it never gets used, worn, or enjoyed actively?
There’s joy in coveting and collecting—I think many people who consider themselves fashion consumers or design fanatics also consider themselves collectors—but in my opinion, there is even greater joy in wearing or using something daily that you love, not keeping it safely in its dust bag.
Having appreciated high-quality, high-end, beautiful objects and garments all my life, I’ve had to learn how to actually use them, how to see them as lovely things, but not handle them too preciously.
I love this combination of colors
When you’re worried about getting water on your suede shoes or rubbing against rough surfaces, or stressing about a scratch on your sunglasses, you don’t feel effortless or relaxed. You can’t be present and engaged because your attention is elsewhere.
When you’re wearing exactly the right thing for what you love to do, that’s when you feel effortless. Perhaps the new mantra should go: be practical, stick to a budget, and use what you buy.
Collecting beautiful things doesn’t supplement one’s authentic style if they don’t also speak to your natural habitat, your lifestyle, or your practical needs.
I don’t dress up much and don’t really enjoy it. So why did I have so many expensive loafers and button-up shirts?
My whole outlook changed when I began asking myself questions like: is this need real or is it aspirational? Can I appreciate it without possessing it?
Will I feel comfortable wearing this in my neighborhood, to my favorite restaurants?
Would I take a walk wearing this? (I am a walker.)
I will always appreciate nice things; I just have a broader awareness now of how I can blend wearability and beauty into my style decisions, exactly how I want them to coexist.
What’s Your Style?
How do you approach personal style and purchase decisions?
What does authenticity mean to you?
What’s your favorite place to find novelty without spending a fortune?
Leave a comment below to start the conversation.
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Many thanks to my coach Rachel for timely nudges, Susan for edits, Kathryn for my cool logo, and all of you for reading <3
My style is frillier than it “should be” and I consider florals my neutral 😁
Nicely expressed, couldn’t agree more…:)